Pu‘uhonua o Hōnaunau: A Place Of Refuge

by Michael Malloy, LCSW

Fourteen years ago my son-in-law, Matt, took a new job.  He had been in a job that we all knew the writing was on the wall.  He had an offer to work for another man that had been a client—so he decided to take the new offer. He was to be  Project Manager over the construction of estate homes that his boss was building in Hilton Head, Jackson Hole and Kona, Hawaii.  There were problems on the two jobs in Hawaii (hard to believe huh?) and his new boss wanted him there right away for what he estimated would be at least three to four weeks.  Being a family man himself, he told my son-in-law that anytime he would be gone longer than ten days, he would fly his wife, and new child, to the location as well.  The Hawaii assignment qualified so they flew to Hawaii with a seven-month-old baby, first class.  After their arrival, they called explaining the new job to my wife and I and Matt said at one point, “Dad, you would have a place to stay, why don’t you come over for a week?”  I dismissed the idea at first, being tax season my “accounting firm” wife can go nowhere until April 16th.  But, she kept saying to go on since she will be working long hours anyway.  It did not take a lot of convincing but I was not going to pay an exorbitant amount for a ticket.  Taking a chance, I tried my air miles account and to my surprise, I found a ticket for $60.  I packed in a flash!

It was a wonderful week in a beautiful multi-million dollar home with me being to only grandparent within 4000 miles! I had my new granddaughter Evie to myself.  I was in a bedroom with a kingsize bed with a control panel within an easy reach.  One button controlled the exterior wall which collapsed into itself onto a lanai.  Just beyond that was an infinity pool…beyond that was the pacific ocean with Maui visible in the distance.  I could also see the whales jumping not far from shore…all this without getting out of bed!   Now I knew how the other half lived.  

My daughter Micki, Evie and I---took a day trip south of Kona to a place called Pu‘uhonua o Hōnaunau, a National Historical Park.  This was a residence of the ali‘i or royal chiefs separated by a massive wall from the pu‘uhonua—the place of refuge for defeated warriors, for non-combatants in the time of war (those not warriors) and those who violated the kapu, the sacred laws. The pu‘uhonua was the place of a second chance.  No blood could be shed within this place. It was King Kamehameha I that unified the islands for the first time---but it took bloody battles to bring it about.  The object of war back in those days was to eliminate the enemy (I guess that hasn’t changed), which meant anyone who belonged to the opposing side.  Those too old, too young or otherwise could find sanctuary at the pu‘uhonua.  Defeated warriors also came there where they could wait in safety until the battle was over.  Their allegiance would then be to the victor (switching sides).

Then also there were those who had broken the kapu, tribal law.  That law included not looking at the chief or getting too close, not walking where he had walked, touching the chief’s possessions or even letting your shadow fall on the palace grounds.  Seems you could easily, if not accidentally get in deep trouble back then. There were numerous other laws and to protect themselves from catastrophes (such as from the fire god Pele burping up lava all over them). With the lawbreaker, the people would pursue him until he was caught and put to death---or until he made it to a pu‘uhonua.  If he made it to the pu‘uhonua a ceremony of absolution was performed by the kahuna pule (priest).  The offender could then return home safely, usually within a few hours.  The spirit of the pu‘uhonua was respected by all.

Besides memories of the beautiful home I was staying in, my thoughts have often gone back to Pu’uhonua o Honaunau…that place of refuge. If the Hawaiian’s could make it to the pu‘uhonua, they in a sense got a “get out of jail free” card, and often literally got their lives back. My thoughts then and now have gone to the refuge I have in the God.  I don’t have to land on a particular game space or scramble to the pu’uhonua reserve. There are multiple references to God being a refuge, a harbor, a cleft in the rock or being a shelter beneath His wings.  My refuge, our refuge is not a physical place, it is a Being.

Last-minute trips to Hawaii for $60 staying in a multi-million dollar home don’t come along often. I’m grateful for the time with family, the beautiful location and the opportunity to learn more about the way of life years ago in Hawaii…and that life there now is a tad different…and life for us is too. 

(This photo is of a piece of art I found in a nondescript store on the north end of the island. It is a bark paper with hammered indentions that were then colored brown and black.  It didn’t cost much yet after framing it, it’s one of my favorite finds.) 

Edited 3/2021